Visibility 100m

Right here, right now, 8am, Bangkok 24th Jan 2009.

Tripping the Middle Earth

I see it as the middle of Thailand, a region covered by Phitsanulok and Petchaboon. These highlands lay between the two major arteries leading to Chang Mai up north and E-San north east. Not so well heard of as I was told, it had only grown in popularity following the stir of emails forwarded from one to another in recent years. New to me as well, I have found yet another hidden charm that I have always been seeking. A region that is cool throughout the year with a maximum of 25 in the hotter months of mid year. The drop in mercury to 0 with the formation of frozen trinkets of dew this season. The narration of the land told by the seasoned voice of the old man. I sipped the hot coffee between breezy chills.


Such a place had always exists. Land that used to cost 40k per rai had now inflated to 4mil per rai with the influx of the touristy hordes. Who buys the land I asked. The richness of Bangkokians fuels the property market I was told. I don’t see no five star resorts there… yet. Only plenty of high scenic spots cleared by the farmers to reap the money from the campers from Bangkok. And interestingly, not a single farang for miles on my trip. No big restaurants, no Starbucks. No Seven Eleven, and no big shopping malls. The driver told me electricity and water only came in recent years. Even now, for the campers on some well serviced grounds to enjoy a warm bath, they have to pay 40 baht. A fee for a bucket of boiled water to be laboriously carried up and down the mud steps, delivered to the small mucky concrete enclosure called the toilet.



The cold greeted an unprepared me dressed in only shorts and polo shirt. How could I know the climate was as such. This place is nicknamed the Switzerland of Thailand by many. Still she remained now as an undiscovered spot of paradise un-smudge by the smear of foreign tourism. In the night of 8 degrees, I had to bath in what seemed like water of 0. Whatever body appendages you can imagine I have shrank to a nano mass of something you could never imagine. Darn, it was really really cold. It was even worst in the night when I had to just visit the toilet to release water. The walk to that darn hole, I had to climb over a small hill. The 50 meters felt like 500 as the wind seized every strand of whatever pathetic leg hair I had. I could have just opened my tent, stick out whatever that was necessary and did it. But other then having a civic mind, it was impossible to do that in such cold conditions - cannot find.



Just 20 years ago when the driver was a child, the Thai soldiers were at war with the communist. Shootouts happened everyday. Friends and relatives commonly died in the crossfire. And so he left to find a life in Bangkok, and now he works as a guide bringing many back to his hometown. Nearby Lan Hin Taek, full of natural rock trenches. The communist hid there well, the causalities of war too many. A wall was put up in memory of those who fought, and perished. The echoes of the dead still lives among the fractures of mother earth.


The roads in middle Thailand is not car friendly, I saw Honda Civics naturally low scraping earth. It is made even worst by the so many constructions of upcoming projects trying to cash in on the regions’ growing reputation. When it rains disasters will happen. Mud slides and land slides of every scale destroying everything in their path had taken place before and will happen again. So huge the extent of these natural calamities that only recently, an entire village with many lives was taken. The driver told and pointed as we passed the tomb for many. The eyes only see the camouflage of new foliage so green and fresh. The agriculture so bright and welcoming, the dark mountain of mass murder stands in the short distance.


Drive there if you will, but only to your destination for your stay. Engage the “two rows” I would recommend, and have them bring you around this Khao Kho region. Natural attractions aplenty but die your car will if your own you drive, especially Civics. I had asked and was told that it only cost 1000 baht for the “two rows”, all to your own troop of holiday seekers.


I traveled with a bunch of old folks, all grandmas and aunties from around gig’s local very average village. I was the only guy in the van excluding the driver. Where were the husbands and the men of the family? All gone by now, not dead but with the other woman. They were corny as hell as usual. I told them I did not have a good sleep, the ground was hard. They missed the word ground on purpose and commented how did I get hard? The night was so cold, they don’t believe I could have gone hard.


Tents at 200 baht per night inclusive of the blankets that so many had rolled in. Washed them had they I wonder, but too long I will not ponder. Mundane accommodations for two, but you can squeeze as many as you will in at 1500 baht per night. All lodging were inclusive of the morning mushroom and pork “kao tum” (boiled rice) made so delicious by hunger and the cold. No warm water for bath and I took the water from the same tank and using that same scoop as that used to flush the toilet. A holiday to be at the most basic Thai ways.


Not much more of chances at theses prices the near future to come I foresee. The Bangkokians are buying up the farmlands, turning them into an attempt at grand resorts which will be overpriced like so many other destinations already so. Farang to Thai ratio 1 is to 1000. Plenty of potential mountain wives for the farang picking if you ask me. And if the encroachment of culture with the cross marriages so common in Chang Mai and Chang Rai were to come about, classy and pricy hideaways will ensue altering the culture forever. Tap the potential if a rich Bangkok boy I am, but sadly I am no Bangkok boy and money no enough I am like many. Gosh… the opportunities in this land. Curses the shit job and life I am. Buddha, Jesus, Toa Peh Gong and whatever up there, heaven help me.



Full photo sets here under Petchaboon Jan 2009.

Last Cold Spell?

It is January, meaning the winter months should be over. The searing heat of April will approach to welcome the next big long Songkran holiday that every Thai is looking forward to (Thais love long long holidays, me too). The past weekend had Bangkok experience night temperatures of 16 degrees. Me in Khao Kho, without any wooly clothes and totally unprepared in only polo shirts and shorts, was a frozen block at 8 degrees.




Just look the thermometer I snapped in the morning. 10 to 11 depress. As I walked around, the wind chill was even worst. Newspaper reported some areas in the north had frozen dew in the morning, and temperature is expected to drop to 0 on some nights there. Amazing.

Thais tell me, it is like that before winter is over. This could be the last cold spell, last burst of chillness before the cycle repeats. The heat will arrive then rain on in May and cold again as November draws closer. The land of three seasons.

Home Phu Teoy

Relying on GPS to get here was a disaster. But in the end, I found this jungle resort. Popular and very well known to Thai people, it is a spot good in winter months where temperatures of 20 are enjoyed throughout the night. Accommodations of many styles are located throughout this resort all for the same price. Therefore it is wise for anyone planning a trip here to pre-tell which rooms are desired in order not to be located in the deep jungle units without good views. The best I saw was units 5 and 6 which exhibit overhanging balcony overlooking the meandering river.


Why the Thai families love this place is because anyone who comes here will be treated like farmed pigs. We got fed 5 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, tea time, dinner, supper) in different parts of the resort. This place is huge and the owner made the meals setup in different areas to enforce long walks (really long walks). His concept is that walking is good, walk and breathe the fresh air his concept. For me, it was more like hungry animal need to go though many bush, smell food source and locate reward. What’s laid out on the table is then what you get to consume. Force feeding only, no ala carte orders. Which is why for someone who really wants a holiday to not think or make decision of any kind (aka lazy people), this is the place. Just relax and rot, but do lots of walk. The meals were just normal, stuffs you could buy for less then THB$50 for two in the market. I am sure they could do better and for this, Home Phu Teoy is a wee bit overpriced if judged.


Two swimming pools are located herein, on opposite sides of the world. One sits next to the reservoir where we had tea time force fed snacks. There are plenty of boats here for anyone to roll or paddle. In the afternoon when the sun shines strong, it is good for a swim in the blue pool surrounded by all shades of green. After snacks, you could spend an eternity to explore the area and then be greeted by dinner time next. I chose to drive all over the resort in my car (aka lazy… but smarter plus contribute to pollution).

There are shows in the night on some days when occupancy rates are high. Mine was such a night. We were lead to the open air amphitheatre in the cool darkness of night before forced fed dinner. A 20 minutes show which I could summarize as follows.

Part 1. Big bad Jap came make salves many many built bridge.


Part 2. Bridge finished and happy everyone (except for many many that died). So celebrate with fireworks many many also.

Part 3. Farang send aeroplane many many come from sky, drop bomb also many many. None hit (aka idiots with lousy aim).



Part 4. Flash big big with loud loud boom sound. Then after smoke clear we saw bridge broken broken.

Part 5. We then proceeded to walk to dinner 10 minutes away.

After the meal of inferior quality, the night was heard with insects of many kinds. The gecko croaked loud near the table where I worked on my laptop out front my room. The environment was ideal for concentration and inspiration. I typed and worked away as the wild dog snooze away in a cuddle up round for warmth by the cold concrete wall behind.




This is an old resort of more then 10 years old. A very popular resort with the Thais. What’s my verdict on this I’ll be kind. It is good for a weekend if you don’t mind what’s pricy for the standard. THB$4,000 in all, a packaged I booked long way ago in April of 08 during the Thai travel fair. One more thing, don’t rely on GSM – GPRS – GPS – online Google Maps on mobile 100%. And especially assholes who GeoTag the location on the wrong side of the river.


Full photo sets here under Kanchanaburi Jan 2009.

Using GPS and Google Maps in Thailand

We live in amazing world of technology now. I went to a resort last week and all I had to do was to enter the destination into the online Google Maps Java App and it did the routing for me. Drove happily on and on following the purple line on the map and it lead me through the jungles of Kanchanaburi towards my destination.

Note the keyword… ONLINE Google Maps. Deep into the mountain roads, no more GSM. No more GSM means no more GPRS. No more GPRS means no more Google Maps. Only one blue GPS dot – me, on blank screen. Halleluiah. My brain was as empty as the blank screen. I had to drive all over to very high spots to get GSM – GPRS – Google Maps. Further readings of the route revealed that some asshole GeoTag the resort on the wrong side of the river. Halleluiah number 2. There was only one bridge that my car can cross the river, 1 hour’s journey back. Halleluiah number 3. All road labels in Google Maps are in Thai, no way to change the language. Halleluiah number 4. Follow alternative road to some famous well known landmarks to get back on track, but was lead to off road tracks only accessible by 4WD. Halleluiah number 5.

Google Maps on mobile phones, I am sure Google can do better and have offline maps (please…). GeoTags by independent individuals on the World Wide Web, cannot trust. Lost for 2 hours in the midst of buffalos, cows, chickens, rice farms and roads full of portholes.