A Cultural Night in Chiangmai, Khun Khantoke

Entrance to the Dining Area

Arrived late at Centara. We did some waiting to get into out rooms because all guest seems to check in at 6 pm where most of staffs had gone for dinner. After a quick shower and too tired to venture into the city for a meal, we decided to head next door where we saw crows building up. Dinner and cultural show with many traditional dance for less the 500 Baht. Ok I will never do such touristy things, but with my energy already sapped, I went for it.

Sat on the floor on Lanna mats and pillows, we were served an assortment of northern food. It's just one of those days where we were lazy to think what to eat and ate what was fed. It was not bad at all, and they kept filling up our dishes when we half emptied them. Free flow the food was but the drinks we had to pay. The neon and stage lights illuminated the place in a kaleidoscope of artificial colors, the mozzies filled the air. They were so brave I could simply pick one of those fat blood suckers off my skin and I felt the fur on its body, that's how big it was. Coated myself in repellent and I was left in peace to enjoy the meal in the cold night.

Lama?

With an onslaught of announcement in multi languages which included English and Mandarin, sharp melodic tunes were pumped from large stage speakers driven by vast decks of amplifiers. It sounded like a Chinese funeral and I wailed in accordance to tradition till my girlfriend smacked me in the head. Thou shall watch thy show and keep silence. Each dance lasted a mere 5 minutes, each with its own meaning. The dancers performed in the middle of the compound surrounded by diners laid back on their stiff triangular sofa. Part of the show included performers mingling with the crowds, terrorizing kids with lama like mutant creatures and ferocious Yak in their spiky glittering costumes. The place was packed full house that night, the servers stepped gingerly among the grid of patrons with heavily laden servings of delicacy.

Dance Dance

We did not wait till the end of show. Having been overfed with a wealth of never ending lukewarm cuisines, digestive enzymes were at work full force within driving us lethargic amidst bright lights and loud music. We asked for bill, strolled about the several souvenir shops and soon retired to Centara a short walk away. Khun Khantoke, a great place for first time visitors of Thailand, see show, eat chow, good in winter conditions, not a sweat broken and beware the mozzies.

Free flow of Food

Sitting on Lanna Sofas

The Yak

Yak Terrorizing Diners

Umbrella Dance

Drums and Boys

The Vicinity

A Mini Escape, Centara Khum Phaya Resort & Spa

Grand Entry into the Hotel

There are two Centara hotels over at Chiangmai. One is of more economical value called Centara Duangtawan and the other is Centara Khum Phaya Resort & Spa. It was a takeover by Centara I was told. I stayed for a night during my northern winter trip over the New Year's holiday. This hotel is amazing, Chiangmai is a bustling city and any city hotels are stereotyped to be just staying in room within a concrete block. Well not here. The grand entrance, painted in decorative gold and built of dark wood, is like walking into a very grand temple. The accommodation lined the very large lengthy pool is just two stories high with all lower rooms having pool access. I was upgraded to a pool access for free and the bathroom was truly exquisite. It had a Jacuzzi in there and I so loved relaxing my aching body massaged by the powerful jets after a hectic day of driving and visiting places. If you travelled enough, you will get to know that most hotels in Thailand had aged and negligence inherent. Water flow in bathrooms will be reduced to a trickle so washing soap and shampoo from oneself would take an eternity. However here, the bathroom, in addition to the main shower head, had six additional water jets to engulf your body. I didn't know the jets were so powerful, I turned them on full. The initial freezing water almost shot both my nipples off.

Shady and Nice

The avenues within the compound is shaded under tall majestic tress. Strolling under the green foliage in cool winter air, my mental state pacified into a total relaxation. They have bar that is tastefully suited next to an artificial river and having that cocktail in the cool night in tranquility is much better than having drinks at noisy beer gardens in city. Sliding my wooden doors opened, the pool was very inviting, but water too cold for swim this period. Would have been great for summer. Sumptuous buffet breakfast was served out door in a sheltered garden housing, the wooden decked floors on which the chairs and tables were set. In the winter morning, cold it was, steam bellowed from my tea. The area a bit small so one will have to sit indoors if late and the crowd had set in. A great escape from city life within the Chiangmai city. No regrets that I had picked this for a night's stay.

Romantic Bar by the River

Crocs and Birds, that's Bueng Boraphet

Our Boatman

The boatman, his weathered brown skin shone a golden hue in the low winter sun. He held the steering pole that extruded out from a large diesel engine pulled from a vehicle which had seen better days. Occasionally, he would cut the throttle and we lunged forward. Under a gentle rumble, he told mystical tales of the area's past. Factually, he mentioned that the lake used to be well known for her large population of crocodiles, but the flood of 2011 washed them away. Gone, gone with the water he said. So, that's where all the crocodiles that showed up in people's front yard, toilet and under the car came from during the flood. Many others should have been turned into a free meal, handbags, shoes and leather belt. What remains now are only a few of the original residents, large they are but hidden, spot them hard and not many seen. Gripping the lever harder, the vessel throttled up, gentle water turned a white wash.

Her name is e-Dang

"e-Dang, go get the fish, show us what you do!" he shouted at a tree. Our boat was stationary, her engines cut. True enough, a giant bird flapped itself out from the myriad of branches and greens. She soared high away from us. In the distance she made her gentle turn, wings stretched like a Boeing, soon she was headed our way. Glided down low on the water, her curved wings posed like extended flaps of a landing plane. With slow grace, her feet pulled forwards from a streamlined posture hidden in her rear tail feathers. Into a deadly posture of opened claws out front she did. A dip followed with those ferocious assets e-Dang made, and we all saw the deadly embrace of a good sized fish. e-Dang soared again, away from us above the outcrop. "e-Dang going home" the boatman said, home which was another bushy isle behind the one we were berthed. e-Dang is a large bird, something like an eagle but not an eagle. I am no bird person, I don't know the species, but that was what the boatman said.

Our Boat

This boat that we sat in, was not a boat. It was a pontoon with a roof snapped on, two dining tables and some chairs placed within. Behind balanced on a large pivoting mechanical structure, the diesel powered the extended propeller just like a long tail boat. If we did come in the early morning, we could bring our coffee and breakfast for the ride. This is what visitors to the lake do, enjoy the morning, the view, the fresh air and the chats. The ride will cost different amount depending on the distance you want to cover, or how deep into the lake you want to venture. But generally there are 3 routes advertised on the board where the berth is located. The price is fix by per boat and not by pax. So we shared with the other friendly visitors which arrived on that late afternoon. That's where strangers became friends and we exchanged ideas of our winter itineraries the next few days to come on this northern trip.

Vast Lake

Bueng Boraphet is a protected area, the largest wetlands in Thailand located in Nakhon Sawan and some kind of nature reserve where hunting or fishing is not allowed. But yet despite the rules and regulations, left unpatrolled, the illegal fishermen we saw. This lake, in the cool month of December the boatman told, was suppose to be filled with vibrant blossoms and occupied by large flocks of migratory birds from as far as Siberia. But it did not happen. "Water came late this year, the lake turned into grassland. Luung (meaning uncle in Thai) was not able to venture out and make a living for six months" the boatman said pitifully. Our vessel gently approached the berth and the helpers on land pulled us in and secured the boat lines for us to alight. We exchanged goodbyes and good luck with the other visitors, bid the boatman farewell with "sa-wat-dee pi-mai". Twist of the key, crank of the engine, and onto Mae Sot for a night's stay and a late dinner between.

Different Routes, Different Charges

Birds

Those long neck ones are going Extinct

More Birds

The Mirror Lake

Illegal Fishermen

Suppose to be full of these this Season

Illegal Fishing Nets

A Big Bird

Arriving Back

Just another Picture

A Drive to Chiangmai on New Year

All squash on the Peak

It's common for folks here to flock to the north during the year end in order to welcome the new year and embrace the cold weather. Right before the trip, I was pretty excited and I envisioned myself standing atop the mountain taking in the golden spectacle during sunrise supplemented with a scenery of peaks engulfed in a sea of fog. Truth is, it was a sea of people's heads instead. Everyone made their way up the peak and scuffled around, not 2 to 3 meters away, a deadly drop over the edge of the cliff and onto rocky outcrop 20 meters down. Die for sure and it had happened. Many of my friends said they rather be in Bangkok than to go places and, loosely translated from Thai, "scuffle-to-eat, scuffle-to-enjoy". I had never traveled on New Year's holidays and now I know why.

The rewards of getting to Chiangmai

It was great drive to the north from Bangkok. Once passed the terrible pothole filled roads of Nakon Sawan onto Tak, was a pleasant cruise through the scenic countryside on meandering roads towards Lampang and into Chiangmai. Pick a good time to go, I left on a Friday when most people were still working. My friends who left on Saturday the 28 Dec filled Facebook with pictures of roads jammed with cars accompanied by curses, complains and swears. They took 15 hours to reach Chiangmai crawling most of the time at 40 km/h. So my advice is, never ever leave Bangkok on "convenient" days that coincide with the year end.

Birds and Birds

Along this route I mentioned, there are plenty to do. Nakon Sawan offers a waterlogged nature reserve known as Bueng Boraphet, a place for bird lovers and filled with vibrant lotus flowers if the season is right. Not wanting to stress myself out on a 700 km journey to Chiangmai, Mae Sot, we decided to stay a night. In the morning we enjoyed the colder then Chiangmai weather and denser then Chiangmai fog. There were the hill tribe markets we visited where the visitors few and the fried pork skins fragrant and freshly taken out of hot oil. We stopped by the view point I discovered on my previous trip and sipped hot tea, it was truly relaxing.

Horsey

I was told that within each province there will be a main temple. It is customary that visitors should then pray at them temples as part of their itinerary. In Lampang I visited, there is Wat Phra That Lampang Luang. Within the temple ground is the dark pagoda. Also in the compound lies a mysterious chapel that no woman can enter as it may result in horny monks or something. Lampang is famous for her horse carriage rides, we took it and galloped around the temple at a lazy pace. The horse's name was Peter.

Coin Balancing

In Lamphun there is Wat Phra That Haripunchai. In this temple, there is a giant Buddha's footprint that everyone prays to and leave a coin behind balanced on its edges. Back in Lampang, they have a foot print too. In fact, many temples here have Buddha's foot print. Buddha must be very popular and travelled the globe to leave his prints in ancient cement. He must have been a rock star. This Lamphun temple features a golden pagoda that looks too much similar to that on Doi Suthep. I could easily trick others into believing I was at Doi Suthep with a snapshot.

Chaos

Speaking of Doi Suthep, it was one stop I never went because the whole Thailand seemed to be there. Massive jams up the mountain and not a place to park. I bet Buddha came and left his footprint too. All in all, I prayed at 2 temples thus. With so many people, my line of telepathic sight to the Buddha during prayers were constantly interrupted by people moving up front near the altar. My prayers will not be answered this year because most of the time, I was praying to stranger's ass.

There are many more hill tribe villages to visit around Doi Suthep and it was one of the places I went. Driving up the mountain on a late morning, I so anticipated winding down me windows breathing in the fresh mountain air. All I took in was dreadful exhaust fumes and the smell of burning clutch and brakes on the slow crawling mountain pass. Eventually I reached Ban Mong Doi Pui Suthep without dying from the odorless carbon monoxide. It took forever to find parking as it was crowded, during that time spent, I witness my armpit hair growing longer.

Ain't Real

So anyway, finally into the village I went. I had never seen so many pretty Hmong girls dressed in their traditional multicolored bonbon adorned costumes before. It was amazing at first until I saw them snapping pictures on their Galaxy and iPads. Aright give them some credit, maybe they were from visiting tribal villages. Another tell tale sign was that Hmong girls don't wear jeans. I am interested to find out what they wear underneath their dress though. However, there was no breeze strong enough that day to blow their heavy skirts up. Why was the whole hill like a crowded fancy dress party? Because there are shops renting out these costumes for people to play out their whatever Hmong fantasy frolicking among the flowers and Poppy fields. Yes your read it, Poppy fields they have with Poppy flowers and probably Poppy intoxicated tourist maybe around hidden corners. Poppy I never try, but Khao Soi, a traditional northern noodle set in thick curry gravy so delicious I had in one of the hill side shops.

One Lane, Two Way

Traveling north in winter, one of the main list of items to do would be to visit what they called the Sakura flower pastures on the mountain. It ain't easy to get to. Can I drive there I asked, yes I can they said. But they never did mentioned we needed to drive along one lane roads meant for two way traffic edging sharp cliff drops. Found out the hard way, I decided to park my car on one of the larger view points before I reach the infamous Khun Chang Kian. So did many others. We hopped on the "two-rows" which charged us 150 for the return trip some 3 km more into the mountainous terrain. The journey took long for most of the time, the driver had to move close to the edge of certain death to make way for opposite traffic. When we arrived, we were greeted by dry twigs, no pretty flowers. They were all budding, set to bloom only in the mid of January. It's okay, never try never know and now I know. So did many others.

Jam

The downhill to our resort was also a killer, we were stuck on the mountain pass for 3 solid hours thanks to the "two-rows" that hogged Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep. When I finally reached the temple entrance from Doi Pui on the downhill, I saw them rowdy "two-rows" made illegal u-turns, waited for passengers, parked alongside the narrow road and blocked the traffic without regards to the public. Strangely through those hours of ordeal, there was not a single police in sight to keep order, none, zero, naught. They must have all been assigned to protect Yingluck from whistle blowers on her tour of the north during the period. Whatever.

It was Mad

We returned to our hotel when the skies turned dark. Had a shower and decided to head for dinner at the famed Walking Street of Chiangmai. Again, while looking for a place to park around the vicinity, I witness my armpit hair growing. And when we finally set foot on the avenue lined with shops of all sorts, I swear the whole Bangkok plus many parts of the world were all there. Canned sardines have more space to move then people on Walking Street. The Khao Soi I had in one of the makeshift food corner tasted like curry diluted with river water. Bad choice, bad night. Went back to resort soon after to enjoy steaming hot tea in the cold weather, it was much better.

The next day, learnt from the previous Doi Suthep trip, we knew we must leave at ungodly hours of the morning to avoid traffic. We headed for Mon Cham, Thais told me it was the latest new trend in Chiangmai to visit this region of Mae Rim. Its near to the heart of Chiangmai and we reached there in under an hour, arrived just before 6. We found out then, Mon Cham was a gated compound and the sign reads "Open at 7 am". There were some two rows parked around the corner and they voiced out they could take us to watch the sunrise some distance away. So we went. That which was the crowded peak I mentioned in the beginning of this blog. We returned some 2 hours later and Mon Cham hand turned into Mon Jam featuring a sea of cars and people from Bangkok. So the rest of the morning was spent on the strawberry fields and the vineyards surrounding Mon Cham. We returned to our resort early afternoon to unwind the rest of the day in preparation for the full 700 km trip back to Bangkok the next day.

Pleasant Drive

If you should be driving for the northern trip, plan it in such a way that you choose the best of resorts to stay on the final day, there which one can wind down after the hectic few days of visiting here there and everywhere. Also, one is not advised to go on days coinciding with New Year nor Songkran because your underwear will decay in traffic. Picking the right car to go will also be wise. A small call on this trip consumes 1 liter per 13.5 km contributed by the hilly drive and jams. The Jazz hugged the sharp turns and accelerated well on the mountain pass. A large capacity car will consume 13.5 liter for per 100 km. The upside is a stable ride and pleasant high speed cruise on the more gentle meandering roads where torque is on the side of overtaking. Winter will be romantic for one to ride their big bikes up north as I had seen, but travel in the day would be a sensible choice. Night riders may hit bad roads and fall off, get run over by the many other vehicles whizzing by thinking the fallen is a large road kill. That is till they smash into the bike further down the distance and hear mechanical crushing sound. This made more dangerous by slightly drunk drivers because everyone drinks this period.

Surprise Lunch Area

The drive to Chiangmai is 700 km or so. Averagely, it takes more than 10 hours to get there with the many small meal and toilet breaks in between. It could take less than 7 but that will mean driving nonstop till testicles molecularly infused with car seat. It's good to try the obscure rest areas dotted along the route as I had discovered. We stopped at one of these and had a very pleasant lunch by the Wang River.

In between your drive, you could take a break at places for sheep huggers. There will be Coco and then Hug Me Sheep Farm. These places are well known and during this season, pity those sheep and rabbits that must have been stressed by the marauding crowd, the grappling hands and the overfeeding. These spots are for the shutter bugs, for a nice coffee break, an average cake maybe and for lousy food.

The Resort I Stayed

Plan your trip well in advance and make accommodation bookings because most resorts will have been fully booked. Some of my friends however did what they always had done, which is to just drive in and try any lodging they find along the way. They said, there always will be somewhere to accommodate you, it's either those less well know unrated unpublished small inns or home stay, or that discrete drive in "pump-pump" hotels so many in Thailand where your cars are concealed in curtains.

Wrapping this post up my advise on traveling on new year - leave Bangkok and be back on the odd days, there will be less frustration and more relaxation. Visiting the touristy spots, go well before the sunrise. When the crowds start to build in the late morning, have lunch and then head back to your resort and chill out the rest of the day.

Hot Soup in Cool Winter

Chill by the River

Waiting the Sunrise

The Strawberry Fields

Lunch on the Hill

Morning Fog

Picture in the Final Day, Still Cool

Crazy about Evason Hua Hin

Hua Hin in Rainy October

See the Discreet Stream? It is There

Call me crazy, but I was back in Evason Hua Hin twice in the last 2 months. The first time was in October, a month filled with rain. The sun broke between lengths of bleak cloud covers but the upside was the cooling and constant breeze that enveloped this seaside resort. As always, Evason's theme of eco friendliness knocked my stress level down many notches the moment I was whizzed into the compound on their golf buggies. Just strolling within the resort is itself therapeutic to the senses, but beware the free acupuncture sessions from mozzies. Night walks after dinner was lovely among her walkways through the greens, a serene sense of calm. Lined along most paths are hidden streams where the fauna sprouts, but these could be booby traps for one not to careful. So, take your time, stroll and enjoy the fresh air, walk slow in case if you were to end up submerged in the dark, at least you get submerged slowly. I saw they have bicycles for leisurely rides among the compound, which could mean you can end up submerged very fast in either the lotus pond or the many streams if you ain't careful in the dark.

More Night Water Traps.....

This weekend, surprisingly the pool was not a zoo compared to the last time I was there. And so I had the chance to waddle in her large open waters gazing out the rough seas breaking shores. It was also the first time I had tried the dinner within her restaurants. Though every dish in her buffet was sumptuous, the variety was very limited probably due to the small number of diners. When in Hua Hin, holiday makers usually eat out where the local delicacies are plentiful more. Breakfast, I sort of got a feeling they had it well plan out in advance for the weekend mostly Asian crowd. No longer do we need to fight for that sacred bacon as it was constantly refilled, plus they had an additional buffet line setup just for satisfying the cravings of a hundred bacon fetish patrons. Many many more pigs must have been sacrificed just for the weekends, and they must have been doing it in the kitchen for being able to make steady supply.

Organic Gardens in Evason

Well, as for floating in my private pool villa, staring up at blue skies in relaxation, no, it did not happen. For some reasons, our bookings went haywire and we were "downgraded" to a studio room. It all began when we got strange calls from the hotel discouraging us to go on the weekend we booked, they said there was rain. We told them we did not want to postpone our company trip just because of that. If they had told us that NASA had calculated the projectile of some mysterious near Earth asteroids that will hit Evason, we would have gladly postponed. Not going into details on how the mistake was made, I will only highlight on how professional it was handled eventually. Evason strived in every aspects of customer satisfaction, you will not be let down. We definitely were well taken care of with the sales admitting her blunder. I will be back again for that much needed break in her pool villa. I was so pleased with Evason that I decided to take an extra night the next round I am there.

Hua Hin Winter December

Jacuzzi

And so I was back for the third time in December following that previous booking hiccup which turned my trip a bit sour. This round, I stayed in villa 237. I found out that some of the villas actually are much larger in area and spots an additional Jacuzzi. Not only that, villa 237 has a large garden within, the lotus pond divides in between. To get into these villas, one will have to know they exist first, thus my review here to tell. You need to request for them, they go for the same price as any of the other villas too. The first thing I did was jumped into the pool. The next thing I immediately did was quickly get out of the pool after my nipples turned into stone. Anyone would associate Thailand with warm tropical climate but this year 2013 in the month of December, Hua Hin was enveloped in sub 30 degrees C temperatures in the day which cooled down to a low 18 in the night. As a result, water cold, many bodily extremities shrunk.

Nice

So it took a couple of wine and running around in circles before I decided to engulf myself in the square tub Jacuzzi located next to the sala. I found it pleasantly warmer then the pool, could be the wine, could be it was just that warmer because it is just that a smaller body of water. Downside was, why was the water murky? I didn't want to imagine what the previous occupants were doing in there. Ok maybe they just took a soapy bath. So, just I laid back, relaxed and hope I didn't see any floating tiny curls left behind.

Great Steak

I went for the half board 2000 Baht package, never regretted, highly recommended. It included free bicycle rentals, an archery session to shoot at boards, not birds. Also included was a spa treatment, the first ever which I tried in Evason and it was fantastic. I became a pile of melted cheese glued to the bed and never wanted to leave. There was a dinner in the package, picked a starter, a main course and that sweet desert to close the feast. I contemplated much about having the steak, but glad I was I eventually did have it. No one makes good steak in Thailand, most chefs and menu highlights of western food are all in a way fake. From my experience, there was once I had asked for medium and felt like I was eating a live cow instead. So through another episode I asked for medium well and I ended up eating what I felt was a rubber ball. I developed so much jaw muscle on that dining experience that my facial shape began to resemble our exiled prime minister. But here at Evason, the steak was fantastically great. The tenderloin was cooked to the right degree, the texture of the meat was easy on me jaws. The searing was done correct, the fragrance of beef fats, the juices flowing, you just gotta try it. Three days and two nights passed so fast, till we meet again Evason a relaxing stay always.

Outdoor Bath