Swimming with the Flotsam on Samet, Lima Coco

The very interesting Shuttle Boat


How we got onto the Island

Just there for a weekend gateway, a single night on the not too far away island of Samet. From Bangkok a good 2 hours drive, left my car with the caretakers at the pier for a small fee. Getting from the larger speed boats onto Samet have always been interesting as one would have to step aboard the shuttle boat, that which is basically chairs bolted on platform with engine.


This is not really Enjoyable


Traps for the Barefooted

Being so near to Bangkok on a well known island, expect it to be filled with people. The resort is just a little worn down but we could see the effort they put in to maintain its former pristine back when it was new. The shore however, pristine is not a word to be for that. Samet located south of the great industrial estates on mainland and Samet an island so exploited by the many small resorts. She is getting from worst to worst every year. Litters and flotsams the sea was strewn with, so sad the sight of the waters which clarity was suppose to have been appealing.


Resort Front


Dine by the Beach

The average food for the average price but ordering what I desired was in itself a challenge. I don’t know which country they get the waiters and waitresses from but I know they were not Thai. So we were served the wrong dish. Speaking both bad Thai and English they were, I did not have a third or fourth (probably Burmese or Cambodian) language I could communicate with them.


Dine in the Sunset


How we got Off the Island

All in all for the price, it was just what to expect for that short stay to get away from town. Isolated on a small bay dotted with litter I saw they tried so much to pick up every now and then, Lima Coco with rooms that are tight and tinted with that little exotic glamour, is that average okay resort meeting what most will reasonably expect it to be.
Dine in the Sunset


BBQ Seafood


Lima Coco


Dinner Menu

The Residence Hua Hin

Jacuzzi in a 2 bedroom villa.

Not the typical hotels that are aplenty lining parallel to the shoreline of Cha-Am and Hua Hin, but more like a cluster of two and three bedroom villas cuddled up in the middle of scorched farmlands within the vicinity of a few also scorched hills. Getting there requires some intuitive navigation skills and some phone calls to the resort as cows passed by your car on the local roads that you will be lost.


Stumbling into cows while driving local roads.


Coordinates 12°38'22.64"N, 99°55'16.46"

The Residence Hua Hin, is located next to Stamford University. However, unlike the university that could afford a large piece of land thus the strategic entrance from the main Phet Kasem road, entry to The Residence Hua Hin is from Hua Hin Soi 6, pass a railway track and through many villages inland that requires some driving. The villas are single storey bungalows toned orange brown enclosed by bamboo fence that's too low for any privacy comfort. So one could not skinny dip into the small Jacuzzi so inviting out front of the every villa on a hot day's night. The villas are all very spacious, a few of which have three bedrooms with the rest made up of two bedrooms units. In fact it is so spacious that if your friends bring along their own sleeping bags, you could sleep well over ten just in the living room. However, the air conditioners have aged and took a long time to cool the room down. So for the first half of the night, your slumber will be an episode between waking up to scratch unknown number of mosquitoes bites and restless naps before one can finally hibernate in the so thick comforter shielding one from the abundant pest.


Three bedrooms Villa.


Two bedrooms villa.

The Kings sized bed, is actually made up of two rather hard mattresses. You will roll over the hard ridge in your sleep on the bed I think intended for people with back problems. It's too rigid for my preference and I truly did not enjoy my sleep at all, waking up a dozen time looking at the clock hoping morning will come soon. Breakfast, I wished they could have done better for the price that one has to pay. Limited in selection and equivalent to two star motel quality which I frequent on my upcountry work trips. Dinner, again a disappointment on my end. Fish & Chips - Cod coated in delicious batter served with French Fires and salad the menu stated. And so I ordered with high expectations on the taste of a true English Fish & Chips reminiscence of my childhood which I had so many. Now the batter was good, but the Cod is not a Cod. It was some fishy tasting thin slab of local shallow water fish. So, don't ever ever ever ever order the Fish & Chips here. It ain't chip either.


Villas enclosed in low fence.


Spacious interior.

Showering in the villas expect some surprises. Well, there's a huge bathtub one could onzen in the bathroom and that's a plus point. Water pleasantly heated will be available and the flow is strong so no minus points on that too. Draining the tub, my bathroom was flooded from the water oozing out from the other drainage hole driving up scores of black scum accompanied by an appalling smell which infiltrated into the bedroom. No more onzen for me after my first try. Maintenance on the clogged drainage had been neglected in the villas and I wonder if they knew. Big minus point.


The big swimming pool.


Restaurant by pond where breakfast is served.

If it is a quite place one is looking for to be with a number of friends to get away from Bangkok, then The Residence Hua Hin is one good idea. Since it is spacious and large, taking on a three bedroom unit will allows for six or more guest. Chilling out to wine and snacks chattering the night away. Holding that cold beer in the Jacuzzi amongst laughter of friends soaking. Away from the packed beach pubs and noisy hotels lining the shoreline, this will be the place for you. However, if you come along with great expectation on the F&B, the quality of sleep matching the price, then one will truly be disappointed. Impression neutral I have, but nevertheless over these New Year holidays, rested my mind somehow I had.

Winter in a Tropical Island - Koh Mak

Koh Mak, the clear waters.


Getting there to Laem Ngop, 6 hours if you drive really slow.


Parking at THB 60 per night.

This island, Koh Mak, smack in the middle of Ao Thai ocean between Koh Chang and Koh Kood. A journey there will take 4 hours by car to reach the various ferry terminals within Laem Ngop in the province of Trat, so start your journey early. Over at Laem Ngop, on an unnamed jetty, there are speed boat operators offering the sea crossing for hotel staffs on Koh Mak at only THB 350, and for the public at THB 450. They also offer parking lots in private housing for you to leave your cars at THB 60 per night. Now, these boats are not the normal slow massive ferries crossing to Koh Chang. These are fast sea vessels guaranteed at making you regurgitate your food out all over the 16 or so rather comfortable seating under the white canvas canopy shielding you from the sun. It was hell of a ride for me as the December sea was rough. The boat had to continually retard the on the throttle and yet attempt to make the crossing in under 45 minutes. It's the monsoon now and we had to slam through the waves instead of cutting smoothly across clam waters. My testicles swapped positions after the ride.


A pier at Koh Mak where we arrived.


The long beach of Haad Khao.

There are a few beaches on Koh Mak. You wouldn't know which beach you did be arriving on but not to worry, the island has a network of local roads and your hotel will pick you up in a truck. We stayed on Haad Khao which means white beach. The sand ain't white on this wide gentle beach stretching laterally east west, but the waters are clam with very gentle waves offering us sunbathers a relaxing swim. We could float around face up without a struggle and be one with the horizon. The waters not churned is clear this season, see them crabs crawling and the occasional small fishes darting. I love Haad Khao, with the winter sun low, we enjoyed both orange sunrise and radiant sunsets in full view.


The shallow waters.


Sunrise in cold December mornings.

Winter I mentioned, whatever winter am I talking about? This is a tropical island, but December offered contrastingly cold mornings. Every morning, we woke to the sound of bristling trees swaying about in the breeze, it was the music of nature. It was 19 degrees centigrade as the sun rose and I clicked away on me shutter. In double clothing I was in, the wind chill I fought. The cleaners were out early, they comb the beaches keeping her pristine.


Bungalows of Baan Chailay.


Local road entrance to resort.

I stayed in Baan Chailay, about 4 to5 bungalows she has. Easy on me pocket, it cost THB 1,200 and we could sleep three. The air conditioner old, but it was cold. Need it actually we don't, the weather was pleasant. Hot showers in ground water pumped from below we bathed. The water was more of a trickling, and it smelt but hey, I ain't complaining for this price. Breakfast served simple, American or that Khao Tom (boiled rice) went well with the self served instant coffee. We were the only Asians accompanied by a number of elderly Caucasian folks politely chatting. Seated on wooden chairs and over our food laden tables, the feel was easy and homey. I had my 3 strips of bacon in the yellow sunlight accompanied by eggs, bread and butter.


Canoes for rental.

As the hours passed, the sky was a deep blue interrupted by bright white clouds . Still, the relentless breeze blowing. Our scheduled snorkeling trip costing THB 500 per pax was repeatedly delayed hourly since 10am. The sea beyond was too rough and the air too cold. We could have had ourselves a private boat at THB1,500, but it had been already been fully taken up by all the Farangs told we were. Being on Koh Mak during the monsoon season, expect travel plans to be altered. Our trip was eventually cancelled and the operators were worried how they were to deal with them Farangs who came on packaged tour. Nevertheless, we went on to an island opposite our beach known as Koh Rayang Nok.


Koh Rayang Nok.


Beach chairs.


White sands on a rather limited beach.

Koh Rayang Nok offered a small white beach with a few beach chars tastefully placed near the shoreline. Coming onto this island is not free, cost THB 200 for "entry". You could get your snorkeling gear form the lone restaurant operating on this island but the December seas were too strong for me. I do not want to drift away to Cambodia so I just sat on the sand whiter than that on Haad Khao on Koh Mak. That's where we also decided to have out very late lunch, not too tasty and a rather bit pricey. And as when one wishes, just tell the boat operator and you will be on your 10 minutes journey back onto Koh Mak.


Wind surfers during sunset.


Local roads to restaurants.

As evening approaches the cats were out playing. The dogs swam and we tourist strolled along passing the many small decent and simple resorts spaciously spread on Haad Khao. At times, we had the whole beach to ourselves. At times we had to avoid being hit by the beach ball so franticly chased by the sweaty young beach boys playing out front of their resorts. Dinner can be offered by a few restaurants located along the main road hidden behind by all the idyllic accommodations along this beach. Don't expect a gastronomical feast on these joints, they offer only decent simple meal masquerading behind artful names.


Chilling out the night.


Sofas on the breezy beach.

After dinner, there's a only-pub-on-this-beach place you could go to the locals called a Reggie Pub. Its well known to have a once a month Full Moon Party similar to that on Koh Phangan. There will be a live band and I could see that the lead singer was attempting his best to please the Farang crowd. We could not understand a single word of all the easy-listening songs he was bringing to us such. Stand By Me became Can By Me, Missing You became Meeing You . Alternatively to avoid the ear torture, we could just chill the night out over BYO whisky on the sofa set on the beach. Just make sure you order that soda, coke or French Fries from the cocktail stand serving the area. They are there to make a living after all and won't be pleased with you taking up the comfy seats free. It seemed we had the whole beach to ourselves again that night, only our laughter, cheers and chatter filled the windy night air. As we drank that last drop under the star lit skies, we walked the 10 meters back to our bungalows and shut down in anticipating of the beautiful sunrise the next morning.


Gentle waves.


So private.

Koh Mak in December, cool weather on contrasting sunny beach. A quiet place giving you the privilege of having the beach and turquoise waters all to yourself at times. Be warned though, oil yourself heavy in insect repellent. I am now sore with more than 20 or so ugly looking blistering sand fly bites. Locals had told me unlike Koh Kood and the more commercial Koh Chang nearby, Koh Mak does not spray their beaches with pesticides. The waters on Haad Khao will be still and only agitated by passing speed boats. The windsurfers takes to the waters and the power kites the cuts the breezy air. The simplicity of this island, the solitude and the clean air is a comeback that I must. Till we meet again.

Taking on Samui Roads

The good point of having a car on Samui is that one will not be restricted in coverage , bounded by an invisible barrier limited by the range covered by "two-rows" (truck taxis) that one can hop on. And they ain't cheap just for hopping from Chaweng to Lamai or the surrounding areas. I had discovered this stretch of beach facing the sunset. Takhoe is the name of the restaurant and I remembered the food was great and cheap. In contrast to the farang filled stylish restaurants on Chaweng, I was dining among the locals sipping Hundred Pipers with the soda or Coke. We came a wee bit late and missed the setting sun, the waitress told us we should have come earlier when the beach was shimmering in warm tones of orange and red. Didn't want no sand flies to jab into my foot and lay its entire family in there, so for all I would suggest - bring your insect repellent.


Takhoe place is well known for its very weird food. Away from the realm of common seafood, we had jungle mushrooms of some sort accompanied by healthy brown rice which health freaks find it ok but for me felt like chewing on dried straws I feed to my rabbit. Dining on the white weathered plastic chairs sprawled on the sandy beach, the condiments included one of the tastiest Kapi (prawn paste in chill) specially baked on coconut husk which not everyone could stomach. Normally I don't take on these weird dishes guaranteed to cause unusual lingering breath for hours, but this Kapi was something extraordinary.



Coordinates 9°34'40.53"N, 99°56'34.10"E for your reference.



On my previous blogs, I had mentioned of dining up the mountains in a place called Paradise Park. Well again, Samui is not just about the sun, sea and beach. Driving inlands heading up the mountains guided by very poor maps, I had stumbled on The Mountain Grand View Restaurant & Swimming Pool. This restaurant, they tried their best to offer guest a dip in their infinity pool which has one of the best Samui's view, but I don't think anyone would want to dip in the neglected algae infested very green waters. Pool on Samui and what comes to mind is farangs heaps basking in the sun, but I guessed this place is a challenge to find and therefore the desolation.


No guest was there and we had the whole place to ourselves. It became not economically viable to maintain the pool water and so I suppose its purpose now is a giant bird bath, a frog breeding pond or a tourist trip over and fall into water trap. Other than that aside, enjoying a cup of coffee or cooling down that cocktail accompanied by the mountain breeze with an incredible view of the distant horizon makes the trip up worthwhile.


Just watch out for the land slide areas on the way up which ate up half of the road. We were told that the weather these late years had been extreme and Samui had been trying their best to cope with fighting nature.



Coordinates 9°28'42.60"N, 99°59'49.20"E for your reference.



Here's a restaurant that offers quite a feast, not too local and reasonably priced, the crowd is a mix of locals, farangs and mosquitoes . Offering the standard range of cholesterol laden tasty Thai seafood dishes is Sabienglae Restaurant. Its located in between Lamai and Chaweng not too difficult to find. Expect the place to be packed as it is quite well known. I was not too impressed by the dinner but I would rather not risk driving into the dark mountain roads in the night and have my hungry carcass discovered in a Vios at the bottom of a landslide scene. Coordinates 9°27'11.33"N, 100° 2'10.74"E for your reference.



As you cruise the coastal roads and ascend the hills of Samui, one does come across many little spots of pleasant settings so inviting for a chill-chill (Thai slang for chill out time). Appeal of all kinds from contemporary back to rustic rural and pure simple offers a choice too many for the curious soul of an explorer. Amongst that which I mentioned, food for the belly, we scaled the hundred steps up into the temple overlooking the airport, and shopped the weekend night market of Lamai.



And as we tire we had our cocktails by the fiery night beach nearby. Just driving, maneuvering corners and watch that endless horizon revealing up as we rolled on over the top of the hill is already an episode of endorphin in my warm bloodstream.

Full photo sets here under Samui Aug 2011.